Showing posts with label liquorice. Show all posts
Showing posts with label liquorice. Show all posts

Wednesday, July 9, 2025

MHG Volunteer Blog 27: Liquorice

It's the return of Pontefract Liquorice Festival this weekend (Sunday 13 July)! 

So, we're afraid there's no prizes for guessing our Medieval Herb Garden volunteers' Plant of the Week this week...

Well, after the much longed-for heavy downpour at the weekend, the ground was still too wet to walk on today. Any weeding had to be done at the edges of the MHG.

We took some rose cuttings from the front garden. We put out some motherwort, angelica and goat’s rue plants on the sales barrow. Carole also made sure that there are plenty of liquorice plants available for the Liquorice Festival this weekend.

Whilst carrying out the flower count, Carole decided which plants to include in this Saturday’s free talk (1pm – 3pm). The plant list is always changing, so it’s never exactly the same talk twice.

Plant of the Week: Liquorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra)

Liquorice is more than 30 times sweeter than sugar! It derives its name from the Greek words 'glycys' (sweet) and 'rhiza' (root). This Greek term was Latinized as 'liquiritia', from which came the Anglo-French 'lycorys'. 'Glabra' means smooth (relating to the seed pod). It was sometimes known as sweetwood.

Liquorice is native to West Asia, North Africa and Southern Europe. It is a bushy, deciduous, herbaceous, leguminous, perennial. It will not grow well on clay. It prefers rich, fine soil, where there is a lot of moisture during the growing period.

A tall thin green stem with purple flowers on thinner stems sprouting out of it
Liquorice in flower growing in the Medieval Herb Garden

It prefers full sun, facing South or West, where the ground bakes hard. Normally, liquorice doesn't show any growth until late May. It then grows to a height of 4ft with a width of 3ft. Liquorice has pinnate leaves about 7-15cm long, formed of 9-17 opposite pairs of leaflets.

The roots are deep, soft, flexible, fibrous and stoloniferous. Stoloniferous means the roots grow stolons. Stolons are creeping horizontal plant runners that take root at points along its length to form new plants. Liquorice runners can grow up to 20ft in length! It is a mix of the root and runners which are harvested as “liquorice root”.

Liquorice flowers in June to July. It has purple to pale whitish-blue pea-like flowers. The flowers are 8-12mm long produced in a loose inflorescence (cluster). The fruit is a pea-like, oblong pod, 20-30mm long, containing several seeds. New plants can be raised from either seed or root cuttings. 

There are various types of liquorice grown around the world. Glycyrrhiza glabra is the type that was (and still is) grown at Pontefract Castle. This type is considered to have a more delicate flavour than the types later imported into Britain.

Culinary uses of liquorice

Before the 1200s, liquorice was most commonly brewed into a stout beer. At the time of the Renaissance (starting around the 1400s), it began to be added to sweets. Liquorice was also used as a flavouring for bread and other baked goods.

Liquorice has also been used to flavour tobacco, ice-cream and medicines. It is marketed as a dietary supplement. In some parts of the Arabic world, the root of the liquorice plant is used to make a cold drink with a sweet and mildly bitter taste. This is called Erk al-sous.

And, of course - liquorice is still today made into the world-famous Pontefract Cakes!

Jars of Pontefract Cakes for sale on a shelf with Pontefract Castle branding
Pontefract Cakes for sale at Pontefract Castle

Liquorice in Pontefract

Camden's 'Britannia' of 1607 noted that liquorice was growing in Worksop and Pontefract. By 1614, Pontefract was producing small, round lozenges that could ease coughs and stomach complaints. These were hand-stamped with a design to show their quality and authenticity.

In Pontefract liquorice was often grown in people’s 'gardens'. On a map of the 1648 Siege of Pontefract, liquorice is marked as being grown in 'garths' either side of Micklegate.

Soon, liquorice was being grown all over the town to supply the liquorice industry. The Castle was planted with liquorice after the English Civil Wars. The dungeon was used to store the root. Beds of liquorice lined Southgate and Micklegate, and there were plantations in the Friarwood Valley. By 1750, there were 47 growers in Pontefract. These met the increasing demand for liquorice.

In 1760, George Dunhill (an apothecary) created the first liquorice confectionery by adding sugar to the liquorice root extract. Dunhill called them Pomfret Cakes. These cakes were stamped with an image of Pontefract Castle. They were also widely known as Yorkshire Pennies.

A shallow rectangular cardboard box with 'Dunhill's original Pontefract Cakes, established 1760' on it, and a green design with illustrations of the black circular sweets
A Dunhill's Pontefract Cakes box in the Wakefield Museums and Castles collection

At the liquorice industry's height there were 13 factories in the town, each with their own 'authenticity stamp'. On the 1933 Town Map there are 7 liquorice factories shown within a radius of a few hundred yards of the Buttercross.

Over time, Pontefract's confectioners began to close, merge with one another, or be acquired by their larger rivals. Today, there are only two manufacturers remaining in the town.

Folklore and other facts about liquorice

Roman soldiers chewed liquorice root as a medicinal stick for its thirst-quenching qualities and benefits for sore throats. Liquorice root has been found in excavations along Hadrian’s Wall.

The first secret ballot in a parliamentary election was held in Pontefract on 15 August 1872. The ballot boxes were sealed using a Pontefract Cakes stamp from Frank Dunhill's factory.

The waste root is now being made into a chemical wood pulp. This is pressed into a board and used to make boxes.

Objects made from Pontefract liquorice have appeared many times in films. In the 1979 Bond film 'Moonraker', Jaws is seen biting through a thick electric cable. This was a prop made out of liquorice from Pontefract!

In 1899, Bassett’s salesman Charlie Thompson visited a wholesaler in Leicester with his samples case of liquorice and cream paste specialities. The wholesaler initially refused each item offered. However, the items were accidentally spilled and got jumbled together. The wholesaler liked what he saw and placed an order for a ‘mixed’ delivery. Bassett agreed to this order. He asked Charlie Thompson to give the new assortment a name. Thompson called them 'Liquorice Allsorts'.

Medieval uses*

The earliest documented medicinal use of liquorice can be traced back to ancient Assyrian, Egyptian, Chinese and Indian cultures. Ancient Greek sources provide the first use of liquorice as a drug in Europe.

Liquorice is anti-inflammatory. It was used for asthma, diseases affecting the voice, mouth ulcerations, dry cough and hoarseness, wheezing and shortness of breath and for pains in the chest and lungs.

It was also used for the burning sensation of the stomach, diseases of the liver, bladder and kidney pain, kidney stones, artery diseases, heart palpitations, angina, skin lesions, ulcers, thirst, fever, neuralgia, hair loss, and menopausal symptoms. Liquorice was also used to make a tea which could mask the taste of other bitter medicines.

Liquorice is considered safe as a food ingredient - in moderation. Excessive consumption of liquorice can lead to lowered potassium levels in the blood, increased blood pressure, and to kidney and heart failure.

So, maybe don't devour all your Liquorice Festival goodies at once!

*As always, this isn't to be considered medical advice today. Please don't use any plants mentioned in these blogs as medicine without advice from a doctor.

Browse more weekly blogs from the Medieval Herb Garden

Friday, July 3, 2020

Pontefract Allsorts: How liquorice got its roots in Pontefract

Liquorice - whether you love or hate the taste, there's no denying the plant has long been synonymous with Pontefract. But how did a middle Eastern herb become embedded in our town's history? Where did liquorice originate from? We've had a root through our liquorice collection and dug up some treasures. 


Liquorice was probably first brought to Pontefract either by medieval knights returning to the castle from the Crusades, or by the Dominican monks who settled at the neighbouring priory. Pontefract proved to be fertile ground for liquorice, the plant's long roots thriving in the deep loamy local soil. 

Liquorice fields in the Nevison area

Liquorice growing and harvesting in the Friarwood area

A spoonful of sugar


Prized at first for its medicinal properties, liquorice began to be grown across the area. The sap was extracted from the root and used to treat coughs and stomach complaints. By the 1700s, there were liquorice garths springing up all around and even the castle yard was being cultivated. Local chemists, the Dunhill family, rented the land there and used the castle cellars to store their harvested roots. 

It is George Dunhill who is credited with first adding sugar to liquorice to transform the medicine into the sweet delicacy we still know today. He is believed to have pioneered the production and marketing of the now iconic Pontefract Cake as a commercial confectionery.

Handstamp for marking Pontefract Cakes, Dunhills Ltd, early 20th century
A worker stamping Pontefract Cakes at W. R. Wilkinson & Co. Ltd, 1950s


And so Pontefract became inextricably linked with liquorice. By the 1900s, treats made in one of Pontefract's many factories were enjoyed by those with a sweet tooth all around the world. At the industry's height there were 13 factories in the town. The rival companies all produced a wide array of different liquorice variations: 

Ewbanks

From 1887 Ewbanks' production was based at the Eagle Liquorice Works in Friarwood. The factory was surrounded by orchards. During the Second World War, Eagle Works suffered bad bomb damage and some production moved to other local companies.
 

Ewbanks advert from 1927
Reads: Make them laugh or cry - Liquorice Funny faces, 1/2D each. Ewbanks Ltd Pontefract.

Hillaby's

John Hillaby established his Lion Liquorice Works, a four storey steam-powered factory, in 1850. The company grew its own crops and by 1893 had become the largest producer in the world. In 1925 they achieved a further claim to fame, producing the liquorice boot eaten by Charlie Chaplin in the film, Goldrush.
 

Hillaby's delivery van outside the factory, 1930s
The van has the 'Hillaby's Pontefract Cakes' logo on its side, and a uniformed worker is loading large boxes of Hillaby's Promfret Cakes into the van. In the background there is a horse-drawn cart being led away from the van. Has this just delivered the cakes fresh from the factory behind?

J. H. Addingley & Sons

Baghill Refinery was a three storey building boasting steam-powered machinery, offices, a warehouse and packing room, and mechanics and joinery shops.
 
Addingley's sweet tin from the early 20th Century
The tin is painted with the red Addingley's logo and a picture of a crown with the word 'Imperial'. It reads 'Liquorice Confectionary, Baghill Refinery, Pontefract, England'. There are also some yellow flowers.

W. R. Wilkinson & Co.

Originally started in 1884 at a malt kiln in Southgate, Wilkinson's expanded several times. First, to the Britannia Works on Skinner Lane and then again in 1925 to a 'garden factory' in Monkhill. Here, employees enjoyed workers' housing, tennis courts and allotments, as well as outings to the seaside.


Workers packing sweets at the Wilkinson's factory, mid-20th century
All of the workers are women, dressed in long overcoats and white caps covering their tied-up hair. One of the workers, a young woman, is looking towards the photographer and smiling. All of the workers are weighing out the sweets before packing them into identical boxes. Each has a lot of boxes in front of her!


Wilkinson's specimen carton, early 20th century
The carton shows a drawing of the Wilkinson's Liquorice factory, a large rectangular building with big rectangular windows. In front of the factory, a male and a female worker are playing tennis on a perfect grass tennis pitch. There are also flower beds and benches, where other workers are reading the newspaper and having a chat. The sides of the carton read 'Wilkinson's Liquorice All-Sorts' and 'Manufcatured by Wilkinson & Co Ltd, Pontefract, England'

Robinson & Wordsworth

Founded in 1871, the company was based at Victoria Works. In 1893, the recently expanded factory welcomed the curator of Kew Museum, who visited to research liquorice cultivation. Robinson & Wordsworth also had a display at the Kew Botanic Gardens.
 

 A Robinson &Wordsworth's sweet tin from the early 20th century
The tin is pale green, with the words 'Robinson & Wordsworth's, wholesome & reliable, liquorice confectionary, Pontefract' on it. In the middle is a cartoon of a castle with the words 'castle brand', referring to Pontefract Castle.

'Spanish'


Eventually, Pontefract's prolific business began to exhaust the local crops. With supplies struggling to keep up with demand, the firms instead imported liquorice from Turkey and Spain. Liquorice is still affectionately known as Spanish by locals. By the end of the 19th century, most of Pontefract's liquorice fields were gone, although it continued to grow at Stump Cross until the mid 20th century. 

Liquorice growing near Stump Cross Lane in 1960s

Wooden spade for harvesting liquorice root


Liquorice legacy


Over time, Pontefract's confectioners began to close, merge with one another, or be acquired by their larger rivals. Today, there are two producers remaining in the town. The German giant, Haribo, arrived in Pontefract in the 1970s when they first acquired a stake in Dunhills Ltd, the original pioneer of the Pontefract Cake. Tangerine Confectionery's roots in the town can be traced back to W. R. Wilkinson & Co.


Pontefract Museum's liquorice displays, including scales used by liquorice growers in the early 20th century

Wakefield Museums & Castles are very privileged to care for our large liquorice collection. We proudly display a selection of highlights at Pontefract Museum but there is even more to enjoy on our online catalogue - why not have a root around today yourself? Or get your teeth into our liquorice inspired jigsaw: